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Sep 05, 2010 06:31:23 AM MST
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The making of a pickup E-mail
This article describes the process I follow to design and build custom pickups based on customer specs.

The first step is desinging the bobbin aided by computer drawing software. Because I build so many different custom basses including custom string spacing and custom pickup designs, it's difficult to use a standard setup for all pickups, so we import a full size drawing of the fretboard with the strings running the full scale length. Depending on what type of sound the customer is looking for, single coil, dual coil humbuckers (stacked, side by side or inline) one or two pickpus are placed in the drawing. The position of the pickup can also determine the spacing and it's also dependant on the sound the customer wants. Bobbins are drawn full size and printed. These will be used to make the bobbins and the wooden covers.

Depending on how many pickups I'm making at a time and if they use the same number of strings, design and spacing, I may stack up the bobbin flatwork blanks and drill the holes at the same time. This ensures consistency. Also, if the customer asked for exposed pickup covers, then the bobbin and the cover blank are drilled at the same time to ensure correct alignment.

After the magnet holes are drilled in the bobbin flat work I drill and countersink the holes for the brass eyelets that'll serve as anchors for the pickup terminals. The brass eyelets are installed and punched in place using a purpose-made tool.

Next step is to assemble the bobbin with the magnets and the flatwork. I use two kinds of spacers and magnet lengths: 1" long magnets are for exposed poles and 3/4" magnets are for non-exposed poles. A punching pin is installed in the drill press and used to assist in pressing the magnets and flatwork in place.


This next step may be done after or before the bobbin is assembled and glued, depending on the bobbin design, but it is very important. It involves shaving the edges of the inside face of the flatwork into a diminute bevel. The purpose of this bevel is to help avoid the wire catching on these sharp edges while winding and resulting in a weak (but working) point in the pickup. If this happes during winding, the wire is removed and winding starts from scratch. It is also at this point that the bobbin flatwork is glued to the magnets using CA glue to help make for a strong and stable bobbin.

Cloth tape is then used as an insulator between the magnets and the magnet wire. Sometimes the magnets can corrode and dissolve some of the insulation resulting in shorts or a non working pickup over time. The insulation solves this problem. The wire is then hooked to the winding machine and wrapped through the start eyelet of the bobbin (we always mark the 'start' point of a bobbin with a black dot on the underside). The assembly is then mounted on my custom winding machine, the counter is programmed for the desired number of turns and the motor fired off!

When the winding motor stops (automatically at the pre-programmed number of turns) the wound bobbin is removed from the winder and the eyelets are soldered ensuring enough time to allow the insulation on the magnet wire to melt at the eyelet, but not so much that it can break and desintegrate the copper inside. The bobbins are tested for continuity and expected (approximate) impedance. The hookup cables are soldered thorugh the eyelet and impedance is tested again. The pickup is then potted in a mix of paraffin and beeswax at between 120 and 140 deg F. This temperature is enough for the wax to melt to a watery consistency but not hot enough to damage the insulation, solder points or distort the flatwork. This is left to soak for 5 to 20 minutes (until the bubbles stop, that's when the bobbin has sucked all the wax it will take in).

The last step, but certainly not the least important, is to charge the magnets. This is done via large super strong neodymium disc magnets mounted on a custom jig I made. First we determine the polarity of each bobbin and mark them on the top then we proceed to pass the bobbin with the correct face towards the correct polarity several times (this process takes about 5 mins per bobbin). Impedance is tested one last time and that's it! A great sounding pickup!

Last Updated ( Saturday, 26 May 2007 )
 
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Designed by Will Ramirez